This was a tough, tough day.
It started relaxed enough, with a scenic ferry crossing to Tea Gardens, north of the large Port Stephens Harbour. In fact, this harbour was once in the running to become developed as Australia's capital city; however it proved too shallow to ever be viable as a major port, thus negating most of its advantages.
The journey across takes over an hour, normally affording views of the many bottlenose dolphins living in the harbour, but they weren’t to be seen this morning. It was getting noticeably hotter as the week wore on, even at 8.30 the temperature was well up towards 30 degrees.
Port Stephens, from the ferry
Arrival at Tea Gardens
Landing at Tea Gardens the route was meant to follow the coast north to Bombah Point, where there was another ferry crossing. However I stupidly missed the turning, and didn’t realise I was on the wrong road until I’d gone about 10kms. After consulting a map I decided to carry on as the road would shortly join the Pacific Highway, which would in turn link up with a later stage of the day’s route.Although it was a shame to miss the coastal section and the ferry crossing, which sounded a more scenic route, Forster, the evening’s destination, was nearly 100km away and I couldn’t afford the time to double back all the way to the correct turnoff.
The stretch on the Pacific Highway, the main road north, started well enough. It’s a big 4 lane dual carriageway with a nice wide hard shoulder that was fine for cycling.
Unfortunately though, after about 1km, major roadworks closed off the entire northbound carriageway, leaving only one lane open in each direction, and only one hard shoulder, on the southbound carriageway. I decided to take this, against the direction of oncoming traffic, as there was very little room at the side of the northbound lane.
It's obviously a dangerous stretch of road, because there were a number of very poignant roadside memorials to accident victims, some quite elaborate like the one below. These certainly focus the mind on safe driving (and cycling!)
The temperature by now was in the high 30s, there was no shade whatsoever to be had, and I had to plough on for 30kms until the next available refreshments, at Bulahdelah. I stopped here for lunch and rested for an hour or so but even in the shade it was blisteringly hot. From here I was back on the intended route. After a few more kms on the Pacific Highway the route turns left along the Lakes Way. This was very undulating, with some steep ascents up to 5kms long, and equally steep and somewhat scary descents. For most of the way there was little to see except gum trees, which nevertheless afforded very little in the way of shade. Eventually I was rewarded with a spectacular view over Myall Lake:
The final 20kms into Forster were flat, however by now the wind was picking up and blowing straight towards me, slowing my progress considerably. The heat, hills, and humidity were really getting to me by now and my pace slowed down and down. When I finally reached Forster it was after 7pm and I was exhausted. Fortunately Forster’s a decent size town and I had no problem finding a decent motel. After a quick shower I set off to replenish some of the calories I’d used up during this strenuous day, and enjoyed a huge steak at the Reef restaurant on the harbour. Felt much better after that!
Distance covered today - 109kms - doesn’t sound much but it was about the toughest 68 miles I can remember cycling. Total so far: 313kms.
Sunset over Wallis Lake, from Forster waterfront, looking over towards Tuncurry - the next stop!
No comments:
Post a Comment